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Trip Date: July 2-6, 2022

Mineral King Trail Overview

Trail: Mineral King Loop, Precipice Lake & Sawtooth Pass

Distance: 52.4 miles

Elevation Gain: 12,920 ft.

Location: Mineral King, CA. Sequoia National Park

Permits: Wilderness permits are required. Reservations can be made 6 months in advance on Recreation.gov

The Story

A little backstory: It’s Memorial Day weekend and the year is 2015. I took off on a solo road trip since my boyfriend at the time had to work. Taking advantage of the extended weekend I went to Sequoia National Park having only been a few times, and never solo. With very little research I opted for the Mineral King area just outside the national park. Luck was on my side that weekend as I scored the last first-come, first-served campsite after a long 2-hour drive up a long winding mountain road. I’m pretty sure park rangers and camp hosts got tired of irritable people when they arrived to no avail on campsites after the long drive- that they have since changed the camping policy to online reservations only! Long story short- it was my first time in Mineral King. I’ve been back to Mineral King a few times since then, a couple of times with my sister and I backpacked a large 40-mile loop with a friend Janelle, about 2 years ago. We hiked a different version of the loop I did this time around, which consisted of hiking up and over Black Rock Pass.

Fast forward to today: I had planned this hike, my birthday hike with a good friend who unfortunately got called into work at the last minute. Rather than struggling to find a hiking partner and someone to commit to a large trip (6 days planned), I decided it would be best if I just went solo. And, as always- that usually ends up being the best option for me.

girl in sleeping bag watching sunrise

I spent 4 nights and 5 days on the trail. Hiking over 52 miles. Not only did I knock out miles each day, but I challenged myself and my limits and because of that, I felt I was rewarded each day with a newfound appreciation for finding the beauty in discomfort.

Somehow with luck on my side once again, I scored the last walk-up permit for the following day. Running late on my start date with 9 miles planned for that first day, AND having to marmot proof my SUV by myself- there would be no way I was going to make the miles I needed to make in order to finish the trail on time. So, I called the ranger station and asked about walk-up permits for the following day.

Somehow scoring the last available campsite, I would be able to relax that evening and better organize my pack at a car campground called Atmill Campground just 5 miles from the trailhead. This was perfect. I would be able to get an early start to a long next day.

Day 1: Timber Gap, Redwood Meadow, Eagle Scout Creek- 11 miles

Even though I woke up early and got to the trailhead early, tarping up my car took a little longer than hoped for and I still caught myself starting the trail a little past 9:30 AM. Gratefully, the ranger the previous day had changed my itinerary a bit due to 1. lack of water at my first planned site and 2. a big day of climbing that I thought she was just being nice about- but glad I took her advice. My 9-mile planned day turned to 11 miles and I wasn’t even mad about it.

The climb to Timber Gap always reminds me why I love this area so much. I took a little break under the trees and in some shade before the long descent to Cliff Creek where I would stop for lunch and a nice long water break. I remember Cliff Creek having lots of water 2 years ago and am happy to say it’s still flowing strong! The hike down to the creek was through a very large open meadow. Wildflowers were plenty and so were the dragonflies and butterflies!

Crossing Cliff Creek at 6.1 miles, I opted for tuna and crackers for lunch near a small waterfall. I may have slightly fallen in the creek (ankle deep) getting my socks and shoes all wet, so I figured it was a perfect time to take them off to dry while I ate lunch by the creek. After getting back on trail, is where I immediately broke from familiar territory. I was at the junction where most people were turning off to complete the Mineral King Loop via Black Rock Pass. I was headed towards Redwood Meadow, some 4 miles ahead.

Redwood Meadow was my originally planned destination before picking up my permit and speaking with a ranger. The ranger mentioned there being no water at Redwood Meadow, so I would have to carry from Cliff Creek (4-mile water carry) or push on a little further to Granite or Eagle Scout Creeks. I made it 11 miles that first day after finding a legit campsite near Eagle Scout Creek just around 5 PM that evening.

Day 2: Eagle Scout Creek, Big Hamilton & Precipice Lake- 12.5 miles

It’s like all of a sudden I forgot the sunrise is super early in the summer, especially in the Sierra! It wasn’t even 5:45 AM when I was throwing off my layers and wiggling out of my 0-degree sleeping quilt. It was a quiet morning and I was proud of myself for getting an early start. I think I ended up on the trail around 7:30 AM! I did have a big day planned, mileage and elevation but mostly towards the end of my day, where I had been planning to take a long, long break at Big Hamilton Lake.

About a mile into my day and I find myself swapping my hiking shoes for sandals as I was about to cross the Middle Fork Kaweah River. There was no easy way to cross this river, so after walking down a bit and finding a decent spot, making it across, getting my shoes back on, oh- but not before losing my breakfast in the river while crossing- did I also lose the trail. Figured I would be able to bushwhack a bit, still following my GPS, but after scrambling and losing my bear canister (not too far) I dropped my pack in search of a way back to the trail. Didn’t take very long, and all thanks to following my GPS I was back on the trail in no time. A 3-mile climb to Bearpaw Meadow/High Sierra Camp.

I nearly cried when I got to the High Sierra Camp. If there weren’t already a few people hanging out, I probably would have…but the tears did just so happen to follow shortly after. High Sierra Camp is closed for restoration. From old weather signage, it looks like the camp had been closed since 2017. Looks like it would have been a really awesome place to experience! At least that’s what this area is called on the maps. Without any idea I’d be hiking there just in a couple of hours, I was stopped in my tracks. And I cried. Like I did on the JMT. Cause honestly, no other view has even come close. I was now on the HST. Well, I had been on the HST since Bearpaw Meadow just a few miles back, but this- this was breathtaking.

Long hike down and a big climb up to Hamilton waterfall where it was where I pieced together the puzzle. I had been eyeing that waterfall since crying a waterfall of my very own. I had to stop. I dropped my pack, unpacked my bear canister, grabbed some munchies, and refilled my water. Soaked my feet and the views before the climb to Big Hamilton Lake.

Big Hamilton Lake is a popular destination and it’s easy to see why. It would have been my destination if I was hiking with a partner, but I opted to push another 3 miles, 3k feet of elevation gain and oh let’s go ahead and start at 3 PM, yeah? I did stop at Hamilton Lake for a little bit and hung out near the creek to refill water and stock up on some snacks.

The climb was just that, and it took me just as long as I planned: 3 miles in 3 hours. Of course, I took my time so as to not overwhelm myself, but the views themselves were overwhelming. I must’ve stopped well over 50x before finally stopping for an early dinner. Which I totally recommend, by the way! Do you make dinner on the trail before getting to camp?

It was like 5:30 PM and I still had half a mile and several hundred of elevation left before I could drop my pack for the day. I pulled out my stove, and some mac and cheese and make a quick dinner before making the final push to Precipice Lake. It was worth it. The push. The climb. The long day. It was all worth it. By the time I reached the lake, the sun had already past the lake, but the campsite I ended up finding was the true highlight of the day- the entire trip if I’m being honest!

Having already eaten dinner was the most perfect idea! I had enough energy to run around like a mad woman snapping photos of this crazy view I get to fall asleep to! Sunset was pretty epic too! It ended up being a great evening, very quiet, just the way I like it!

Day 3: Precipice Lake, Little 5 Lakes, Big 5 Lakes- 12.6 miles

The sunset last night was pretty special, but I was turned around and it was the sunrise that this spot was known for! Silly me waking up at 5: 15 AM thinking the sun would rise early that morning too. Either way, I was up early so I was not going to miss the sunrise! I ended up taking my sleeping quilt outside with me to lay warm as the sun rose. It may have taken over an hour to rise above the towering peaks that lay before me, but it was worth every waiting minute.

How did you celebrate the 4th of July? This has become my yearly tradition. Backpacking trips for my birthday! I recommend it if you’re into that kind of stuff! lol. It was a pretty buggy morning after reaching the Big Arroyo. As flat and open as the trail became, unfortunately, the mosquitoes appeared and ruined the easiest part of the trail. There was no stopping here. Making decent timing though since the trail was flat. After a few miles, I found a nice place to actually stop without any mosquitoes bothering me. It was perfect because it was the last place before a big climb to Little 5 Lakes.

Little 5 Lakes is a pretty popular destination for hikers hiking the MK Loop via Black Rock Pass. Here there are multiple junctions for completing the pass and it was nice to connect the dots once again. I’m not sure which creek it was when I fell, but yes- I fell again, and like fell. Dropped my phone in the creek and got my socks, shoes, and leggings all soaked. I needed out of the wet soggy-ness, and I needed out fast! It was the first time I ever backpacked with sandals on, and even after 5 miles, I was just too lazy to switch them out. My shoes were taking forever to dry anyways.

I originally planned to break at Little 5 Lakes, but there had been too many people and not enough places to just hang out. So after walking around the lake a few times, I gave up and made the final 3 miles (I believe) to Big 5 Lakes, my planned destination for the day. I was excited to hike part of a new trail and see the Big 5 Lakes, since hiking the MK Loop the first time just follows alongside 1 of the 5 lakes. Unfortunately, skipping lunch, and not knowing how to properly read a topo map, I was descending more to the lake than I wanted and eventually lost the trail. Backtracking to the last known camping spot, and opted for whatever site I could get- lake view or not.

Let’s just say no campsite will ever top the campsite I had the night before. Big 5 Lakes was cool but not as cool as my view from the previous night, but a site is a site nonetheless and I wasn’t too far from getting a pretty awesome view anyways. I was just hungry from skipping lunch and now being dinner time, I was irritated. Got camp set up pretty quickly and just as I sat down to enjoy the process of making dinner- the mosquitoes came back and ruined a perfect evening.

Day 4: Big 5 Lakes, Lost Creek Canyon, Sawtooth Pass- 10.8 miles

Happy Birthday, to me! 🎉 I love nothing more than waking up in the backcountry and going swimming for my birthday. Those two don’t usually happen within the same hour, but this time it did! It was 6: 45 AM when I was swimming around Big 5 Lakes for my 35th birthday. And before you ask- the water wasn’t bad at all! Grateful the mosquitoes weren’t either! It had been several days since I last took a shower, so I wanted to get my hair wet- bad idea at 6: 45 AM no matter the weather! It took me nearly an hour just to warm back up! LOL.

It was a short day planned, less than 10 miles and I was already getting on trail early morning. With Sawtooth Pass still ways away, and not getting a sunrise start- I wasn’t sure if it were safe to go for the pass later on that afternoon after a long break at Lost Creek Canyon. After a long descent down, I had all the energy and there would be no way I could “rest for several hours” before making the push. I ran into Erik headed towards Monarch Lake that morning. In order to get to Monarch Lake via Big 5 Lakes, you hike up and over Sawtooth Pass. He was going for it, even so late in the day- so I felt safe in numbers that I’d make the push as well.

We met up again at Lost Creek Canyon where we met Katherine. We chatted for a while before heading on and she reminded me of my original plan to camp down by Lost Creek Canyon and make the push for the pass in the morning. It sounded like a better idea at the time, but the time had also been like 2: 30 PM. I would be settling down for camp at least 5 hours before sunset! I would have definitely eaten all of my food if I stopped so soon. I continued on. I ran into Erik again, who was still determined to push for the pass. “Mind if I follow you up?” I asked.

Reaching Columbine Lake was dope, not going to lie. A place that had been on my bucket list for some time now and it was everything I imagined it to be. I wish I could have hung out a little longer, but we still had several thousand feet to climb up and over Sawtooth Pass. The clouds rolled in, and pretty fast. We ended up spotting 2 other hikers that day going for the pass. When we finally caught up to them, they had been worried about the clouds rolling in so fast. “What if we don’t know what it looks like on the other side? It could be worse.” one of them said. Made me realize that we probably weren’t in the best conditions to be hiking a mountain pass at 12k ft. with an unmaintained trail leading down at least 2k ft in 1 mile. Sorry, Mom! We all made it safely to the summit pass, and I asked Erik to snap my birthday summit photo before the scariest climb down I’ve yet to experience.

Exactly what we didn’t want was waiting for us on the other side. A whiteout. The clouds were thick and there were absolutely no views from the other side. Tired, and eager to get off the mountain we decided to make our way down and off the pass. There would be no backtracking and I’m glad we all decided to push forward together. It was a long descent down with no visibility at all, following whatever cairns and trail we could see from our GPS devices. Luckily each of us had been following a GPS track and keeping each other accountable when any one of us went off trail.

And of course, as soon as we arrived at Lower Monarch Lake, the clouds slightly lifted and the lake came into view. It was a pretty epic afternoon and like I said when I woke up there’s nothing quite like spending your special day in the backcountry.

Day 5: Lower Monarch Lake to Timber Gap trailhead- 5.5 miles

Waking up at Lower Monarch Lake on the last day was the icing on the cake. My sister and I had backpacked Monarch Lakes a few years prior, but we camped at Upper Monarch lake, so this experience was a little different.

A short 5.5 miles back to the trailhead to wrap up this loop and I’m reminded of the times I hiked this trail before in comparison to my journey now. It’s crazy to see how far you’ve come along just within a few days, but physically feeling how far you’ve come along these past few years- was a true birthday gift to me. And a gift that I will only continue to give myself as my passion grows stronger every year. Oh- and unwrapping my “marmot-proofed” car after getting back to the trailhead is always fun too! 🎁😜

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