Trip Date: July 1-5, 2025
Trail: High Sierra Trail (HST)
Distance: 73.3 miles
Elevation: 16,427 ft.
Location: Sequoia National Park, CA
Permits: Wilderness permits are required for backpacking and can be obtained here.
To be completely honest, thru-hiking the High Sierra Trail (HST) was never on my list… having done multiple hikes around the popular trail from Eastern Sierra to Mineral King, in my mind I had already completed a big portion of the trail. Having thru-hiked the John Muir Trail (JMT) twice, I already knew what it was it was like to finish a thru-hike on Mount Whitney. My summer of 2024 really sucked. I sprained my ankle at the end of June and with only 1 successful backpacking trip after that, winter came and my backpacking season was over.
With the downtime of an injury, depression. Eager to get back on the trail as soon as my body allowed, I craved adventure of a new trail. The High Sierra Trail- where I could connect the dots to my Sierra backcountry adventures, with a bonus ending on Mount Whitney. And the timing, just so happened to be perfect, having successfully ended my thru hike on my 38th birthday.
Day 1: Crescent Meadow to Hamilton Lake, 16.3 miles
The morning started at Lodgepole Campground, where I spent the night before my High Sierra Trail journey. Arriving at Crescent Meadow trailhead around 8 am, I was grateful to have arrived before the first park shuttle. With a big day ahead, I was excited to hike a new part of the trail connecting to Hamilton Lake. It was a beautiful morning, the birds were singing and the weather couldn’t have been more perfect. The trail was quiet, and I didn’t see anyone that morning heading in the same direction.
I immediately was able to locate Hamilton Creek foot bridge (yes, from nearly 15 miles away!) and it made me excited for all that was to come, for I hadn’t been expecting these views on the first day. It’s also the 1st day of July, and the wildflowers are abundant. Within the first 5 miles, and several seasonal creek crossings, there was no reason for me to carry more than 1L of water at a time. My first real break was at 9-mile creek, where I stopped to not only fill up on water, and snack- but it was the first of two foot soaks that day.
Around 3:30 pm and approximately 11 miles into my day, I reached Bearpaw Meadow where I stopped for a quick salami and naan lunch. With 4 miles left to my destination, I was excited to be back on familiar trail. The hike to Hamilton Creek footbridge was long and I underestimated the climb. By 5:24 pm I was at Hamilton Creek for my second foot soak of the day.
Getting here on the first day was tough, and so I earned that 45-minute foot soak. The views from the creek were amazing, and remains one of my favorite of the entire trail. Please be sure to stop and soak in these views before the final push to Hamilton Lake.
As with the entire day, I underestimated the final push to my destination. It wasn’t until 6:31 pm that I reached Hamilton Lake, and luckily, with just enough time to set up camp, filter water, and enjoy a quick dinner before sunset.
Day 2: Hamilton Lake to Moraine Lake, 15.6 miles
Even though I woke up at 5 am that morning, I still hadn’t gotten on trail until 7 am. I like slow mornings. It sets the tone for the day. I’m realizing that if I wake up earlier, I could enjoy a nice slow morning and still get on trail around the same time I usually do. This particular morning was slow, and it was perfect. After a long day yesterday, I was surprised my body felt ready to go. I enjoyed some coffee and shared some epic lake views with a few deer before starting the 3-mile climb to Kaweah Gap.
The morning hike was beautiful. Clouds rolled in and out, with huge shadow play on the lake. Taking my time to Precipice Lake, I snapped some of my favorite photos at Hamilton Gorge Tunnel before running into the first snow patches on the trail just right before the lake. Luckily, I had packed microspikes for a stubborn snow section on the Mount Whitney trail, although I hadn’t planned to use them this early on the trail. After spiking up and making my way across the short snowfield, I realized I completely missed the trail and there was no reason for me to even cross the snow.
Reaching Precipice Lake around 10:14 am, with more snow than I imagined. So much snow that I had to hop over a few boulders to avoid slipping directly into the partially frozen lake. After a 15-minute scramble, I made my way to dry trail. Stopping for a quick snack and water break before making my way to Kaweah Gap. It was pretty windy at the gap, so I made my way down and eventually over to the Big Arroyo.
I had imagined it only being so windy up at the gap, but in reality, the entire hike down to the river was windy. Although I am not a fan of the wind, I was grateful it kept the bugs away- for this was the buggiest section on the Seki Loop for me a couple of years ago. So, for the wind, I was grateful. Lots of down trees slowed me down a bit, but I eventually made it across the Big Arroyo without any issues.
After a foot soak and water break, I packed up and started the climb out of the Big Arroyo. With a 2-mile climb, I decided to take my time and not rush. The trail was quiet, the weather was perfect, and I had all day to make it to Moraine Lake. I put on my earbuds to listen to some music when another hiker caught up from behind me. I mentioned the windy weather for small chat, and he went on to tell me about the storm that’s about to happen within the next hour.
I checked the weather three days before my hike and, with no rain in the forecast, decided to ditch the rain jacket. It was obvious, the clouds, the wind- it was too perfect not to turn into something more. I ran as fast as I could jog, up and over the last climb of the day. The sky turned dark, and the wind stopped, and then it started to rain. Ever so lightly enough for me to decide to hang out under a tree for a while to let the worst of it pass. Instead, it only got worse.
By 4:32 pm, I was sheltered inside my tent, waiting for the storm to pass, with still 2 miles left to my destination. It would be the first time I set up camp to shelter from a storm, pack up, and continue on my hike. Packing up a wet tent sucks, but it was too early to stop, and ironically, I didn’t have enough water to stop for the night. I needed to make it to the lake, no matter how late I arrived, so long as I didn’t get too wet.
It wasn’t until 6:10 pm that evening that I reached Moraine Lake. The rain had just started when I arrived, having to rush to set up camp for the night. Thankfully, it stopped within the hour, so I was able to filter some water from the lake, enjoy dinner outside of my tent, and go hang out by the lake for sunset. It always amazes me, the calm after the storm. As if I wasn’t just hanging out under a tree to avoid getting soaked… thankfully, the rest of the evening remained calm.
Day 3: Moraine Lake to Junction Meadow, 14.8 miles
The sunrise at Moraine Lake was beautiful, and I was so happy I forced myself up and out of the tent that early. I made some coffee and walked over to the lake, and the reflections were perfect. After checking the weather and getting the clear for the day, I felt good getting a later start. Still on the trail a little after 7 am, it took me some time to locate the actual trail from Moraine Lake.
Eventually, when I found my way back to the High Sierra Trail, I was met with this beautiful open meadow. These parts of the trail are my favorite, especially in the early mornings or late evenings. With 6 miles down to the Kern River, I am exploring all new trail again, for I have never hiked down to the Kern River from either my Mineral King trips or the JMT. Excited for all new trail, and a nearly 3k ft descent, I make my way down to the river.
Uphill isn’t my favorite, but too much downhill sucks, too. Making my way down, I lost the trail to avoid some fallen trees, and that took a toll on my morning. Stopping early for a snack and water break, I soaked in my first views of the Kern River, excited to be there soon. By 9 am, I had completed the 6-mile descent to the river- only to discover the river isn’t really close to the trail nor accessible, at this point.
It’s hot, exposed, rocky, and we’re walking in sand. Day 3 on the High Sierra Trail quickly turns into my least favorite day on the trail. And it only gets worse trekking through Kern Canyon. With a recent wildfire, the burn scars were not only depressing, but also killed the trees, therefore, there was absolutely no shade. It only made sense to me why I hadn’t seen anyone else on trail the past couple of days…it’s fuckin’ hot.
By 3:20 pm that afternoon, I arrived at Junction Meadow. Knowing it was a bit too early to stop, it was a long, hot day, and there was absolutely no way I could have made the climb to Wallace Creek that same day- although I pondered it would be the right decision. It wasn’t, and I’m glad I stopped when I did. It was nice to enjoy some daylight and downtime at camp before the sunset. It was particularly nice to camp near the river, so a foot soak after dinner was bound to happen.
Day 4: Junction Meadow to tarn above Guitar Lake, 11.6 miles
The morning was crisp, waking next to the river, but I made my way up to Wallace Creek, getting most of my climb done before the sun hit the trail. With one big creek crossing that morning, I took my time to safely make it across without any issues. Looking back at the climb out of Kern Canyon made me realize just how far I’ve come in those two days. Hot, exposed, sandy, and rocky, I was glad to be done with that section of the trail; however, it was still exciting to trek new territory.
The Wallace Creek junction officially meets up with the John Muir Trail, and it’s 11.4 miles to Mount Whitney! I was so happy to be back on the JMT, I may have shed a few tears. The bugs were pretty bad near the creek. After applying bug spray, I got back on trail, completely forgetting to top off at Wallace Creek. It’s Friday, the 4th of July, so I am unsure if I’ll run into a lot more hikers from here on out, or if the trail will be quiet for the holiday. That morning, I crossed paths with 16 backpackers. Each of them is northbound (NOBO) on the JMT, headed towards Forester Pass.
Once back on the JMT, I’m reminded of the climb to Crabtree Meadow. I must’ve gone on autopilot for a couple of miles because sooner than later, I arrived at Crabtree Ranger Station. I stopped for a quick lunch in the shade around 1:30 pm with only 2 miles left to my destination.
Timberline Lake was beautiful. I filled up at a nearby creek and tried to break and soak in the views, for I was already arriving at camp pretty early. There were so many marmots headed up to Guitar Lake, not to mention the wildflowers. It would be the earliest I’ve hiked Mount Whitney, so the foliage was unlike anything I’ve seen up there.
It was 2:36 pm when I made it to Guitar Lake. Already a few hikers had set up for the day, and it appeared that possible rangers had set up basecamp overlooking the lake. After all, it was 4th of July and what better place to camp? Filling up at the inlet to Guitar Lake, I hung out for 20 minutes, enjoying the downtime and some snacks before making the final push to camp.
By 3:27 pm, I made it to my last campsite on the High Sierra Trail. An unnamed tarn sits above Guitar Lake and is one of my favorite places to camp the night before the final push. 12 miles and 4,300 ft. later, it would be a tougher climb than my summit the next morning. Although it was early in the afternoon, if I planned to wake up at midnight for a birthday summit sunrise, I needed to get to sleep early for an early morning. After confirming with my parents that they would meet me at the portal tomorrow, I made a quick dinner and watched the moon rise with the assumption that the moonlight would be leading me to Mount Whitney in the early morning.
Attempting to get some sleep around 7 pm when the sun’s fully out, but placing my beanie over my eyes really helped me get some shut-eye early. After setting my alarm for midnight, I worried about getting some sleep so early, but my body had been tired from the long day.
Day 5: tarn 11,600′ to Mount Whitney Portal, 14.8 miles
No one likes alarms, and I don’t even use one at home. When I set my alarm for midnight on July 4th, I discovered a way to turn off the sound and have the phone vibrate when the alarm goes off. It must’ve been nerves because I woke up literally 2 minutes before my alarm was set to go off, allowing me to sit and ponder my decision to (finally) attempt a Mount Whitney sunrise.
By 12:45 am, I was on the trail, with a little less than 4.3 miles to the summit and absolutely no idea what time the sun rose. From what I saw when I left camp, no one else arrived later that evening, which is pretty wild to think. I snapped a photo of my tent while I went to retrieve my bear canister, and was so happy with how it turned out.
The hike felt unreal. I hadn’t night hiked in a while, and heading to Mount Whitney to do so, was definitely intimidating. But I took my time, taking necessary breaks, and by the time I reached Trail Crest with 1.9 miles to the summit, it was 3:10 am. I was surprised that no one else was at Trail Crest by the time I arrived, but it was nice to take the lead for a change. After dropping my bear canister, another hiker came up from behind and made it before me. No race, but it was definitely pretty neat being the 2nd person to summit Mount Whitney that morning.
By 4:48 am, I reached the summit of Mount Whitney, for the 3rd time. Each time ending a thru-hike. As day hikers and thru hikers gathered around to watch the sunrise, I pulled out my sleeping quilt and inspired a guy hiking the PCT to do the same. It was so windy at the top, but it was worth it. I honestly couldn’t have arrived at a better time. It would have been pretty miserable having to sit around waiting for the sun to come up, but really it all happened so fast.
After signing the register, I took a peek inside the shelter and was surprised to see it covered in snow! Unfortunately, it was just entirely way too windy to hang out, and as much as I wanted to sit around and chat with this PCT hiker, I knew I had a long day ahead of me, for it would be the first time I would summit Mount Whitney and exit the same day. With the sun rising at 5:34 am that morning, I really didn’t spend much time up top, and started to make my way down by 6:21 am.
On autopilot for the remaining 7-8 miles, and hadn’t even noticed til reaching Outpost Camp. By then, I had already been hiking for 11 hours that morning, and it wasn’t even noon. Reaching Whitney Portal around 1:42 pm was ideal, as I only had to wait about an hour til my parents arrived to meet me at the end. A birthday trip, I won’t soon forget.
