Trip Date: May 3-17, 2023
Just how many Huckleberry treats are one too many? After a 14-day/1,400 miles spring roadie with Wandervans exploring Glacier National Park and beyond, I can’t help but miss life on the road. Despite the rainy weather, I enjoyed wandering around the national park during the off-season. Most of the park’s trails were inaccessible and still covered in snow, but I made sure to make the most of my time there.
This is my third trip with Wandervans and each trip just keeps getting better. From the hot springs roadie in Idaho to the state parks in Arizona and New Mexico, I’m excited to wander Glacier National Park and beyond!
Do you have plans to visit Glacier National Park in the off-season? Curious about road-tripping in a Wandervan? Check out my 2-week itinerary below and see what I got up to!
✈️ Day 1: Spokane International Airport, Washington > Coeur d’Alene, Idaho
After a late flight from LAX, arriving at Spokane International Airport I hopped on a shuttle for a 45-min drive to Coeur d’Alene, Idaho where I picked up my medium-sized Wandervan; my home on wheels for the next 2-weeks.
To say I was tired from traveling is an understatement. I don’t fly very often, so airports sort of stress me out. Thankfully, doing my research before the trip I knew there was a nearby Walmart where I could park the van for a few hours, get some rest, and groceries before making the 4-hour drive to West Glacier, Montana.
🚐 Day 2: Coeur d’Alene, Idaho > West Glacier, Montana
It was a beautiful and warm morning. I was excited to finally be back in Idaho and ready to stock up on food for the trip. I love having the ability to buy fresh food and drinks and keep them cold in the fridge that is provided in the Wandervan. Items like deli meat, cheese, and bread are perfect for making sandwiches on the road and I ate just about one every day!
I was invited for a quick breakfast bite at Fine Brewed Cafe in downtown Coeur d’Alene to meet with one of the owners at Wandervans to go over trip details and content things. I always tend to get a little nervous in a new town, meeting new people, but Nick was great and told me a lot about the surrounding area. After a quick stop at Lake Coeur d’Alene, I was on my way for a 4-hour drive to West Glacier.
There was no need to hit the road so soon, and I really wish I had spent more time in northern Idaho- but that just means I’ll have to plan a trip back soon! The day was beautiful and the weather was nice. Little did I know the moody weather that Montana had in store for me a day after I arrived.
We’re staying at a free dispersed campsite for the next few days, while Apgar Campground is still in primitive status and getting ready to open for the season. Since it was a long travel day, settling into camp was the first on the list and I love how easy it is to set up camp in a Wandervan, especially as someone who is used to setting up a tent.
⛰️ Day 3: West Glacier > Apgar Village > Rocky Point Hike
It was a gloomy morning after yesterday’s high 80s, which gave me the idea of a moody Montana. Arriving at Glacier National Park and the welcoming ranger mentioned that the bears were awake and not to forget the bear spray! It was important not only as a solo hiker but for my safety to be prepared for anything.
Stopping at Glacier Outfitters in Apgar Village, I was able to pick up a weekly rental of bear spray for the remainder of my time in the park. The rental/check-out process was fast and easy and provided a safety video on how to use your bear spray. Most of the park’s amenities were still closed for the season and arriving on a weekday, the park was a bit busy with road construction making the driving to Lake McDonald Lodge a little longer than usual.
I opted for a quick hike to Rocky Point Nature Trail and ended up hiking a little over 5 miles that day. Views from the point had me thinking I was in Canada- it was just that incredible.
🌧️ Day 4: Rainy Day at camp
It ended up raining ALL night and ALL day the next morning. No complaints, I actually enjoy listening to the rain from inside a vehicle- but after the 10th hour or so, it got to be a bit much. I didn’t feel motivated to get ready and go play in the rain. It was gloomy and I was very comfortable just hanging out in the van, so for the remainder of the day/night, I did just that.
Thankfully, the van was equipped with Wi-Fi and I was able to get some work done. I even watched a movie that I had downloaded before my trip- which is something I never make the time for. It was a slow travel day and I enjoyed it very much.
🥾 Day 5: Hike Going-to-the-Sun Road to John’s Lake Loop
It was a nice slow previous day, but I was eager to get back out. After morning coffee, and making lunch, I packed my bag, prepared the bear spray, and headed back to the park.
Going-to-the-Sun Road is a 50-mile scenic route that connects the west and east sides of Glacier National Park. It is closed to vehicle traffic while road crews clear the snow for the season. When GTSR is closed to vehicles, the park opens the road to hikers and bikers, making this an incredible bucket list adventure! I already had plans to hike the road, but when bikers started passing me up I was inspired to rent a bike!
Starting from Lake McDonald Lodge I hiked to McDonald Falls and John’s Lake Loop. It was an incredible time hiking on the road- I didn’t think I’d enjoy hiking on pavement but the views absolutely made up for it and it was a nice mixture to include trail hiking as well.
🚲 Day 6: Bike Going-to-the-Sun Road (11-miles round-trip)
With great weather, I was inspired to rent a bike the following day. Although I didn’t get my day started until a little later that afternoon I only had a couple of hours to ride. I’ve ridden a bike before but never on a road, always at the beach on the strand. I’ve never ridden a road bike either, so I was in for a treat- but how much different could it possibly be?
Let’s just say…I’m thankful they provide you with a free helmet! I picked up my day rental from Glacier Outfitters and was happy that the XS hybrid bike fit perfectly in the back without the need to rent a rack. Safe to say, I didn’t fall- even after an 11-mile ride, I enjoyed my time biking GTSR and can officially mark that off my bucket list- I only regret not starting a little sooner in the day to have more time riding.
🏕️ Day 7: West Glacier > St. Mary Lake/Campground
After nearly a week exploring Apgar and the west side, we make the 2-hour drive east to St. Mary Lake.
St. Mary Campground is the only other campground that is open year-round for primitive camping in the winter and spring. It is first-come, first-serve, and at the time of traveling (2023), primitive camping was $10/night and the perfect basecamp for exploring St. Mary Lake, Rising Sun, and making your way to Many Glacier if time allows.
The drive from Apgar is beautiful. It may have been the timing but the way the sun was setting behind the mountain range was incredible. I found a perfect site and reserved it for 2-days.
🏝️ Day 8: Hike Going-to-the-Sun Road to Goose Island Lookout
The morning was a little gloomy, nothing like it had been in West Glacier. It only made sense to hike part of GTSR from the east side while it was still closed to vehicle traffic.
I remember this part of the drive when I was here back in 2o17. Specifically, Goose Island. I hiked the road as far as Goose Island Lookout and although I hadn’t seen any geese, I definitely heard them. Lake reflections that morning were pretty epic, so you know I was out and about snapping photos.
I cut my time on this hike a little short because I wasn’t prepared for a full-day hike. There had been thunder in the forecast so when the clouds got dark, that was my sign to head back to camp. Of course, it only rained just enough to get everything wet but I had already made it back to the van by then.
⛰️ Day 9: Visiting Many Glacier
After visiting a local pub, the only place where I could get pizza and or wings for dinner that previous night, I was told to visit Many Glacier- if I had the time. I wasn’t sure if it was open, but after finding out just how close I already was- I made plans to check it out the next day.
It was a 45-min drive to the Many Glacier Entrance. 12 miles along a very bumpy and rough road, it probably took over an hour just to be safe and take precautions on the van- but of course, it was stunning and absolutely worth it! I made sure I had time for a hike and when I discovered that the CDT crosses Glacier, I knew exactly where I’d be hiking that afternoon.
My first step on the CDT hiking to Redrock Falls in Many Glacier National Park. Never did I imagine I would see a moose on this trip, let alone on my trail. I had been following moose tracks for a few minutes after a couple popped out of the bushes and warmed me about the moose on the trail up ahead. We ended up hiking together, bushwhacking to avoid the moose. They were a trail crew on a journey to Alaska this summer. Pretty awesome people. Pretty awesome experience. I regret not even trying to take a photo, but I honestly couldn’t get a good look anyway. No point in risking it.
It was early afternoon and I wanted to do at least one more hike. I parked in the Grinnell Glacier trailhead lot and was surprised to see other cars there. The hike to the glacier is over 11 miles and probably covered in snow. I made it as far as Lake Josephine after running into some snow on the trail. About 80% of the lake was still frozen, but it was pretty epic to see. Back to St. Mary Campground for the night.
Back at camp, I received a text notification that GTSR was partially open on the east side. I knew I had to make the drive before my time here was over.
🏕️ Day 10: Camping at Apgar Campground and Bike Ride #2
After a slow morning at camp, I drove to Jackson Glacier Lookout- the farthest vehicles could go that day. I ended up stopping at the first hike I saw, which led me to Barring Falls. My first waterfall hike in Glacier National Park. It was a beautiful hike, but I do wish I saved my time and energy for St. Mary Falls which I passed on my way to Jackson Glacier.
What’s the longest you’ve gone without taking a shower while traveling on the road? I think mine is 16 days. I think. I will get back to you. It’s no contest really, lol! Here we are day 10 and Apgar Campground is open for reservations. After double-checking that the showers were open, cause let’s be honest- it’s the ONLY reason we’re camping in the park- FREE SHOWERS, I confirmed my night reservation and headed back to West Glacier.
I figured since I would be able to take a shower that evening, I could rent another bike (early this time) and see how far I can go, what else I can see- since now they’ve opened the road a little further. It was only a day or two in between my biking journeys but boy was I having a difficult time the 2nd time around. I was not having fun at all. I made it to Avalanche Lake Picnic sites, stopped for a quick bite, and took a break. I was then surrounded by purple butterflies and a baby deer. All of a sudden a burst of energy to push on and I am so glad that I did. 24-mile round trip and I am so proud of myself for making it that far. A shower now that was well deserved and felt great.
🫐 Day 11: Visiting Hungry Horse Reservoir and The Huckleberry Patch
I knew I wanted to spend my time making my way back to Coeur d’Alene since it was such a pretty drive.
Friends recommended checking out Hungry Horse Reservoir and that was a pretty neat place to camp. I made sure to stop at The Huckleberry Patch in Hungry Horse, MT for all the huckleberry treats I could get. My favorite was the lemonade but I also thought the huckleberry jalapeno dipping cause was delicious! Back at camp, being the weekend, there were limited sites available but I lucked out with the very last one.
🥾 Day 12: Hiking Kootenai Suspension Bridge and camping at Yaak River Campground
If you follow along on my adventures, you know that I love loop road trips! Why take the same route back when there are other things to see and do? I spent the afternoon making my way northwest to Kootenai Suspension Bridge to visit Kootenai Falls. The hike is fairly easy and the falls are absolutely beautiful. I was expecting a little more of a suspension bridge, but I’m not going to lie, I was still a little scared looking down! I had imagined people swimming in the river on a hot summer day but had noticed a do not swim sign at the trailhead- which makes sense as the current is very strong.
Again, I lucked out with awesome camping at Yaak River Campground. Not much access to the river but still pretty epic views- definitely a favorite campsite from this trip.
⚡ Day 13: Camping at Yaak Falls Campground
I didn’t make it very far the next day. I learned of more camping around the Yaak River and wanted to spend more time here. After checking out several campgrounds, I decided I liked Yaak Falls Campground the best as there had been a little riverwalk access from camp! The day was hot and I regretted not packing lighter clothes, but it was nice to be covered up from the bees and mosquitoes that came out.
My last day in moody Montana and there’s an epic thunderstorm that rolls in at camp and lasts all night. If there is anything that I am most scared of in nature, it’s thunder/lightning. It was nice to watch from the comfort of the van, but it was wild! I could have only hoped that it rained enough to wash the van, so I wouldn’t have to work so hard the next day!
🏕️ Day 14: Camping at Springy Point Recreation Campground
It did rain all night, but not enough to wash the van. It’s the last full day with Wandervans and with an early flight home, I wanted to wash the van before my last campsite. Finding a car wash to accommodate these vans are half the fun of the van washing process, but we get it done. After washing the van and organizing my things, I realized that I purchased more food than I needed as I ended up stopping at a few places along the way. Rather than toss the food I had, there had been an open food bank literally across the street where I donated the rest of the camping items I had.
My last campsite is finally back in Idaho- the drive through Sand Point, ID had me thinking of ways I could extend my trip even longer! I stayed at Springy Point Campground for my last night and it made me excited for a return trip back. It was a quiet afternoon and a very pretty sunset- but had to call it an early night.
🚐 Day 15: Van return and early flight home!
Having camped about an hour away from Wandervans, I had to wake up around 4:30 AM to make it back to the airport in time for my 7:30 AM flight back home to California. I’m only a morning person when I have to be and as someone who doesn’t fly very often, I always fear missing my flight. The early morning drive was beautiful. Made me regret not waking up sooner every day but knew the weather wasn’t the same.
The drop-off/check-out process is very easy and Wandervans makes it convenient for travelers with early/late flights. After filling up the tank and returning the van, I was met by a shuttle driver to take me to Spokane Airport. After 15 days on the road, you would think I’m ready to come home- instead, I found myself trying to find a way to extend my trip. Who knows maybe sooner than later, I’ll be back!
As I share with you my adventures, it’s important that I share how to take care of these special places for years to come. If you plan to visit any of these campgrounds, or recreational areas, PLEASE PRACTICE LEAVE NO TRACE and ALWAYS leave the trails/campgrounds better than you found them. 🧡
