Mud & Waterfalls: Backpacking the Hetch Hetchy Loop

Trail: Beehive Meadows trailhead to Rancheria Falls
Distance: 28-miles
Elevation: 6,082 ft.
Location: Yosemite National Park, CA
Permits: A wilderness permit is required for overnight backpacking.
Trip Date: May 2024

There are many places in Yosemite National Park where you can visit, explore, and get away from the crowds. Hetch Hetchy is one of those places- known for it’s towering cliffs and waterfalls. In the 1900s, a dam was built, creating the Hetch Hetchy Reservoir, a vital water source for San Francisco and the Bay Area. Hetch Hetchy offers hiking trails with views of the reservoir and waterfalls like Wapama Falls, and the Hetch Hetchy Loop.

I recently completed the Hetch Hetchy Loop which covers nearly 30-miles, offering stunning views of mountain lakes, waterfalls, the reservoir, and lots and lots of mud. I was informed of the bear activity at Lake Vernon, who paid a visit the morning of Day 2; I’d also hike through the thickest mud I’ve yet to experience. The trail is very exposed, so I was grateful for decent weather and lots of waterfalls. Fun fact: My first time backpacking in Yosemite National Park was when I thru-hiked the JMT!

Day 1: Hetch Hetchy Backpacker’s Camp to Lake Vernon (12.77 miles / 3,623′)

The day started around 6 AM at the HH backpackers camp. I arrived the afternoon prior and stayed at the campground to be able to get an early start the next morning. With a full 10-mile day planned, I was advised to have the biggest climb of switchbacks completed by 10 AM. With about a quarter-mile walk from the backpacker’s campground, I arrived at Beehive Meadows trailhead. It’s early morning, and the park is quiet. The sun is a bit harsh, and it is already getting warm. The trail is very exposed, so I opted for shorts and my favorite sun hoodie. Regretting a bug net, I was in for a long 2 days with mosquitoes already making an appearance.

The climb up the 8 switchbacks gaining about 1,200 ft. was completed early morning and I was grateful for the advice. Views of Hetch Hetchy reservoir kept getting better each time the trail faced its direction. I stopped every so often to catch my breath, take a water break, and snack on something salty. It was early morning and I was making great time. Dare I say, I started too soon?

There is a 2.4-mile loop around Laurel Lake that I planned to visit for a lunch break and to honestly kill some time. Unfortunately, the creek I needed to cross (Frog Creek) to access Laurel Lake was too strong for me to feel comfortable enough to cross by myself. So, I sat near the creek and enjoyed lunch there. It was nice to sit and put my tired muddy feet in the water.

By noon, I was back on the trail with less than 5 miles to my planned destination for the night- Lake Vernon. I was told about the Lake Vernon bear activity by the ranger who issued my wilderness permit. “The Lake Vernon bear is active, if it comes around- be LOUD, make NOISE, and stand TALL.” Within an hour after setting up camp, nearby campers started yelling and making lots of noise. “Hey bear! Hey, bear!” They went off for a good 10 minutes. I found out later that evening, they packed up and left.

The night was calm, more campers showed up later that evening with no sight of bears. I was a little upset about not having easy access to the lake. Until I found out the next day, the best camping options were on the other side. Anyway, the next morning as I was prepping to make coffee, I saw a bear from the corner of my eye. I yelled “Hey bear!” and it ran off. Nearby campers were having an early morning campfire, and it must’ve attracted the bear. I made a quick coffee, before packing up and getting back on the trail by 8 AM.

Day 2: Lake Vernon to Rancheria Creek (12.45 miles / 1,749′)

The Lake Vernon bear was the highlight of my morning, and I was so grateful it ran off as quickly as it did. When I came to view with the footbridge, I noticed that was where everyone was camped- with easy access to the lake and epic lake views. I stopped to soak in the views for a few minutes before the climb up the 20-something switchbacks leaving Lake Vernon out of sight.

It was nice to knock out the hardest part of the day before 9 AM, but with so much time in the day, it was probably not necessary to start that early. But I also cannot complain about knocking out the hardest part of the day before 9 AM- meaning it was all downhill from there!

The hike to Tiltill Valley was muddy. Never have I ever hiked through SO much mud! I switched into my sandals to avoid losing my shoes. It was a complete mess- but we were advised to just walk through it. I passed a pond full of lily pads, it was pretty cool to see, especially since I did not know lily pads blossom! I eventually made it to Rancheria Creek, and it was a beautiful sight to see. The trail had been pretty exposed up until this point, so the sounds of the raging creek brought pure joy.

It was around 2 PM when I reached camp, with so much time left in the day and approximately 6 miles back, I pondered just hiking out. I am so glad I decided to stay. It had been pretty buggy at camp, so sitting still was not an option. After setting up camp, I packed a small day bag and retraced my steps to Rancheria Falls. Unaware of how I missed the turnoff, and with lots of time in the day, I went for a little waterfall hike and was so glad that I did. Rancheria Falls was pretty epic!

Day 3: Rancheria Creek to Beehive Meadows ( 6.7 miles / 803′)

With such a short day, I opted to sleep in a little bit. It was nice not having to pack up early or worry about any big climbs out to avoid the mid-day sun. I knew it was a shorter day, but I was totally unaware of what was to come for the last of the Hetch Hetchy Loop. Still getting on the trail a bit early, I was packed up and back on the trail before anyone else at camp.

This was my favorite day for epic waterfalls and reservoir views, and I was not prepared for it at all. It started with epic views of the Hetch Hetchy reservoir, after 2 days we’re finally coming to view with where it all started. And after a few miles, views of Wapama Falls nearly took my breath away for I was not prepared for what was to come.

The hike to Wapama Falls was my favorite part of the entire loop. It’s no wonder why people complete this as a 12-mile day hike. It was wet and it was wild. It was just what I needed after the trail exposure the last several miles. I got soaked, and it felt great. A lifetime experience!

The Beehive Meadows junction completes the loop, and from there, it’s approximately 0.7 miles back to the trailhead! I would recommend doing this hike in spring early summer or fall. Mid-summer appears to be too hot with the trail exposure and oftentimes lack of water. Bear canisters are required for backpacking adventures. Happy trails!